Santander

I’ve got a confession to make. I started watching the (available on Netflix series) Grand Hotel.  It takes place in a fictional town in northern coastal Spain. It was a ridiculous and over the top soap. So, part of my Spain itinerary have to include Santander, which was the primary filming location, at least for the shots of the Hotel itself where Alicia and Julio fell in love, and horrible Diego and Teresa ran the show. I told you it was silly, but good fun. The Grand Hotel was not a hotel at all but was built starting in 1908 as a summer residence for the royal family. Personally, I find the building to be a weird amalgam of styles, and with no balance or symmetry. The towers are different sizes, there’s a weird Tudor thing going on.  It wasn’t possible to visit that day, but I enjoyed the walk around outside.

This is the hidden chamber where Diego imprisoned Alecia!

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Pamplona to San Sebastián 

Harrowing drive. More details to come

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Barcelona to Pamplona

Not what I thought it would be…

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Barcelona quickie

Not what you think, perverts. Content to come

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From Marrakech to Barcelona 

Marrakech airport is lovely.

But the interesting thing is this: I am on a flight to Barcelona watching a silent movie. The movie is called “One Too Many”, starring Oliver Hardy (1916).

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Essaouria 20-24 feb 2016

Essaouria (pronounced Ess-warra) is a 3 hour bus ride north of Agadir. The ride is beautiful, mostly rolling along a deserted coastline with impressive waves.

Essaouria means “small fortress”, referring to the walled part of the city that has been occupied since prehistoric times, but is mainly noted by Americans because it was a favorite chill-out spot of Jimi Hendrix. In truth, he came once for 11 days in 1969, but myth is much more fun than fact. There is even a Cafe Jimi Hendrix in Diabat, which is part of the mythology. (tip: Castles Made of Sand was released in 1967…)

I stayed at the Riad Inna, a comfortable and affordable spot inside the walled city. I needed a man to guide me there, and tipped him 10 dirhams. Here’s the location in the maze:


Essaouria is a good little town to wander around. The food is generally good, but I got pretty sick of mint tea. A glass of wine or a drink is uncommon, an off-license, the only one in town, can be found outside of Bab Doukkala on the Boulevard al Massira, to the right. 

One of the best spots for a drink and sunset is Taros, overlooking the harbor and Place Moulay al Hassan

Here are a few shots from around town. People are generally nice, but it is a tourist destination, and although there is a bit of pressure, negotiations are easy, and pitches for “just come in for some tea!” are easy to decline.



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Around Agadir and Taghazout. February 2016

There are a couple of reasons that I chose to be here. I was well ready to leave Zimbabwe, but wasn’t sure where to go. I also didn’t really want to leave Africa just yet. I only had lightweight clothes with me, and didn’t want to buy anything heavy. I did want to go to some sort of retreat, where I could get a little exercise and live healthfully for a bit.

I was asked if I simply looked at various global temps, and in truth, that’s exactly what I did. As I had said in a previous post, I had read the blogs of other solo women saying they would never again go to Morocco alone. But what they had in common was where they went- up north. Casablanca, Tangier, Fes, Rabat. All places with lots of tourists, and big cities.

 I started looking down coast, and finding better stories, especially about Taghazout- well known in the surfing community as a good place to spend some laid back beach time, and hassle free. So, I googled yoga + Morocco, looking at the area, and came across Dfrost yoga and surfing. They have 2 locations, one in the town of Taghazout, which is more geared to surfers, and one up at Paridis Plage, which is more geared to yogis. I didn’t make any request, I just took what they had available. I might have wanted to be at the one closer to the town, just for more options for restaurants and cafes. A French visitor had found a little cafe near us, so we managed a nice lunch, and the peace and quiet of the location was part of the charm. The group at the house were from all over, all spoke at least some English, and classes were conducted in English. 

We woke to mint tea at around 7am, went up for yoga from 7:30-9:00, then a wonderful breakfast with breads, grains, jams, argan butter, sometimes eggs or an omelette, juice, smoothies (avocado and date doesn’t sound good, but it it amazing), tea and strong coffee. Every day was different, but always excellent quality and flavor.

Here are a couple of pics of Paridis Plage

   
  Camel tracks 

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I’m off on the road to Morocco

A long trip, but so happy I chose to go. Other solo female travel bloggers almost convinced me not to. They are idiots. 

Still with the bad ankles, I arrange the handicapped services at the airports. My flight path will be joburg to Doha to Casablanca, then to Marrakesh. I’ll catch a bus to Agadir from the bus station, which I’ll get to my local bus (19) from the airport. It’s going to be a long couple of days.
Since M was heading to Harare for the weekend, we went to the airport together and had some lunch. There was a group next to our table that was heading to S. Korea, and so excited. What I loved was this guy- easily 6 foot tall in his stocking feet, and rocking those heels. 

 

I get to Marrakesh, and need to get myself to the bus station for the trip to Agadir. I knew in advance that the bus station is located behind the train station, and that local bus 19 will take me to the train. 

Walking out of the airport I am greeted by the taxi cartel. I also was warned about this. Large men trying to get me into a car. “How much to bus station?”, I’d ask, the lead man  would shuffle me down the line- “here, he take you”. “How much?” I ask again… The whole time I’m actually just making my way down the line to where the bus waits. At least 4 times I’m told to “get in”, but will not be given a price. So I get to the bus, and for 30 dirhams, I’m seated and ready to go. The bus driver gives me a route map and lets me know he’ll tell me when I’m there. The taxi drivers look at me incredulously, that they couldn’t persuade me to take a cab without a quote. 

n.b. MAD (Moroccan dirhams) are about 10:1 with US dollar, making value calculations pretty simple.

The great thing about the bus is that it weaves all across town, so you get a mini tour of Marrakesh for cheap. When we get to the train, the driver tells me how to find the bus station behind it, and off I toddle. Lovely train station- compete with a McDonalds (halal, of course). 

I bought my ticket, and with a couple of hours to wait, popped into the Hotel Ibis for my first tagine in Morroco. Chicken with preserved lemon and olive. Bright, delicious, and piping hot! Lovely bread accompanied, and I got a half bottle of Moroccan Vin Gris for 90 dirham.

  
After 36 hours of travel, I finally arrive at the yoga retreat 12k north of Agadir, just up from Taghazout. It’s across from Paradise Beach. It’s quite laid back where we are, quiet, and the stars at night are amazing. There is also a hot tub up there, and you can see the camels down on the beach. It looks like there’s a wall, but that’s just the railing. It’s a bad iPhone zoom picture.  

 

I’ll be here a week, hopefully getting some strength and flexibility back in my ankles, and a little peace of mind. Also, this area of Morocco is dry, so no alcohol for a week, and the food at the retreat is vegetarian, primarily. One night Hassan made a beautiful mackerel tagine, but in general, good clean living. My Scottish roommate was a bit of a pain, not wanting to pay for a private room, but constantly complaining about having to share.. just one of her other, many whines. Several nights I took myself up top and slept on the cot, and it was glorious.

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More Harare thoughts.

Waiting to leave town before posting…

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Victoria Falls

The trip from Harare to Victoria Falls is simple and a reasonable fare on Fastjet. Small airport, the kombi picking me up was driven by Innocent. This is something I see a lot of in Zimbabwe- children are named after a trait the parents want the child to embody.

Airport 
I stayed at the Victoria Falls Rest Camp in town. I originally booked a tent for $28, thinking it would be like the amazing safari tent accommodation at Kruger, but not even close- these were just camping tents. So for $7 more, I chose a “chalet”. So glad I did when we had a fairly intense thunderstorm one night.

The chalet  
The building behind is the communal ablution facility. When I arrived, I had 2 visitors- a cat I named Max, and a vervet monkey. 

 I was there for 3 nights, and max knows a sucker when he sees one.

The park is easily walked to from the camp, but you really get set upon by hawkers- it’s non-stop. Unfortunately, you have to adopt a head down, no talking demeanor, or they will not leave you alone.

Entrance is $30 for those that are not Zimbabwean or African- there’s a scale. The paths are well constructed, but there is no map to carry, you just follow the path. Not long after setting off, there are toilets off to the left. Good thing I didn’t need to go as there was a line… And if you look at the window- a peeper! 

This gentleman escorted me for a bit. 


But I’m here for the falls, not just the baboons.  


 The roar of the water is constant and slightly disconcerting, as it drowns out all other noise. The Tonga name for the falls is Mosi-oa-Tunya, translated as “The Smoke that Thunders”

There are 16 overlooks covering about 3 kilometers. The day I was there was very hot, and while it’s nice that the park is essentially free of vendors (except for at the entrance/exit) it would have been nice to be able to get some water along the way, to drink. Water, water everywhere situation.

Back at camp there is a decent restaurant with good prices, so I generally had dinner there rather than try and walk around town alone in the dark. The night of the bad storm I had a companion. He seems content, yes?

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