What am absolutely charming town. The zone closest to the river is closed to motorized traffic, which definitely helps.
The local dish is called Cao Lau, a noodle dish with a little broth, pork, greens and fried pork skin. It’s ONLY made here, and legend has it that the noodles can only be made from the water from one secret well in the town. Whether it’s true or a myth, I tried at least 5 Cao Lau preparations in town, and each was delicious, and I was sad I wouldn’t be able to find it after I left.
I rented a bike for about $2 for the day, and pedaled out to a restaurant called baby mustard, where I had the Hoi An version of Bahn Xeo- a egg crepe that differs everywhere, depending on the local ingredients. These were smaller than in Rach Gia, and with rice paper to hold it.
Baby Mustard has this great garden where all the veg comes from.
Hoi An is known best as a tailoring town. So, seeing that all my clothes were getting ratty, I decided to get some tunics made, and a cover for my “Judy pillow”, a feather travel pillow that I love. I highly recommend Miss Ann at booth 90 in the Cloth Market.
I met royalty!
I had originally planned 2 days in Hoi An, but I liked it so much I stayed for 5. Also I was happy to overlap with Tiyana and Surjeet that I met in Dalat, ran into in Nha Trang, so I was happy to see them again.
Hotel rec: Hoa Binh. I had a great top floor walk up room, good breakfast (included), and while $20 a night was on the high side, it was well worth it. Nice people too.